How Long Has The Tartan Prints Been Around: History, Origins
Welcome, friends—it’s TARTAN time! So plaid you’re here. Tartan is one of the foundational patterns in modern society, seen everywhere from private school uniforms to grunge music wardrobes. But tartan is so much more than just a striking design. Its story takes us back thousands of years, even to mummies preserved in desert sands. Intrigued? Let’s dive into the captivating history of this iconic pattern.
Ancient Beginnings: Tartan Before Time
Tartan and Twill: A Textile Legacy
Tartan is a type of twill weave, one of the oldest known woven fabrics. Twill’s diagonal structure makes it durable and versatile. However, due to its organic, plant-based composition, early examples of tartan-like fabrics are rare, as they have decomposed over time. Archaeologists have uncovered fragments in Iron Age bogs, revealing the origins of tartan-like weaves.
A Twill Variation
Mummies in Plaid: The Cherchen Man
One of the most astonishing tartan discoveries was the Cherchen Man, a remarkably preserved mummy with Caucasian features found in western China, dating back to around 1000 BCE. His leggings were woven in a tartan-like pattern, a shock to textile historians. Dr. Elizabeth Barber, a leading textile expert, noted that the fabric resembled 19th-century weaves in complexity.
The Hami Plaid and Early Celtic Connections
Nearby, in Qizilchoqa, researchers uncovered Hami plaid, a twill fabric featuring six colors. These findings highlight a possible connection between ancient Celtic textiles and those from Central Asia. The Celts, known for their bright, woven patterns, likely influenced or shared techniques with the Tokharian people of the region.
The Celtic and Gaelic Roots of Tartan
Celtic Brilliance in Early Textiles
The Celts were infamous for their vivid clothing, often incorporating plaid designs. Their penchant for bright patterns and trousers (braccae) earned them the disdain of the Romans, who described them as “garish.” But what the Romans dismissed, historians admire as innovative textile art.
Romans and Their Bias Against Bright Plaids
Much of what we know about Celtic clothing comes from biased Roman accounts. While the Romans ridiculed the Celts’ use of bright plaids, archaeological evidence suggests that tartan patterns were integral to Celtic identity. A recreated blue and white plaid tunic from Thorsberg offers a glimpse into what Celts might have worn.
The Scottish Renaissance of Tartan
Clans, Patterns, and Highland Identity
By the 16th century, tartan was synonymous with Scotland, especially the Highlands. Back then, tartans were determined by regional availability of dyes and weavers’ preferences, not necessarily tied to specific clans. However, by the 18th century, tartan evolved into a symbol of clan identity and pride.
The Jacobite Rebellion and the Dress Act
After the Jacobite Rising in 1745, tartan became a symbol of rebellion. The British government banned its use through the Dress Act of 1746, aiming to suppress Gaelic culture. Wearing tartan could result in harsh penalties, from imprisonment to indentured servitude. Only soldiers in the Black Watch regiment were exempt.
Victorian Obsession and Global Popularization
King George IV: A Fashion Sensation
In 1822, King George IV visited Scotland in full Highland regalia, sparking a tartan craze among the aristocracy. This event marked the beginning of tartan’s mainstream appeal, albeit with some cultural appropriation involved.
Victoria and Albert: The Plaid Power Couple
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were instrumental in popularizing tartan during the Victorian era. Their home, Balmoral Castle, was adorned with tartan, and their influence cemented the pattern’s place in British fashion. Tartan taffeta silk gowns and accessories became all the rage.
Tartan in Modern Society
Commercialism and Cultural Appropriation
Today, tartan is a global fashion staple. However, its commercialization has sparked debates about cultural appropriation, especially when designers strip it of its historical context. Many “official” tartans were created for marketing purposes rather than historical accuracy.
Tartan in Subcultures and High Fashion
Tartan has found a home in punk rock, streetwear, and haute couture. Designers like Vivienne Westwood and brands like Burberry have reimagined tartan, ensuring its relevance in modern fashion.
Conclusion: The Legacy of Tartan
Tartan’s journey from ancient textiles to global fashion symbol showcases its timeless appeal and adaptability. Whether woven into history as a symbol of rebellion or gracing runways as a statement piece, tartan continues to captivate. Its story is a testament to the enduring power of patterns to convey identity, culture, and emotion.
FAQs About Tartan Prints
Q1: What is the difference between tartan and plaid?
Tartan refers to a specific repeatable pattern often associated with Scottish heritage, while plaid can refer to any checkered pattern or even the fabric itself.
Q2: Is tartan exclusive to Scotland?
No, tartan-like patterns have been found in various cultures worldwide, including ancient China and Egypt.
Q3: Why was tartan banned in Scotland?
The Dress Act of 1746 banned tartan to suppress Highland culture after the Jacobite Rising.
Q4: How is tartan made?
Tartan is woven using a twill pattern, which creates its signature diagonal ribbing.
Q5: Can anyone wear tartan?
Yes, tartan is widely worn today, though certain patterns may have specific cultural or clan associations.
